{"id":3507,"date":"2018-07-26T17:10:45","date_gmt":"2018-07-26T17:10:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/?p=3507"},"modified":"2018-07-26T17:13:51","modified_gmt":"2018-07-26T17:13:51","slug":"pole-pole","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/2018\/07\/26\/pole-pole\/","title":{"rendered":"Pole, Pole"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; admin_label=&#8221;section&#8221; custom_padding_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#aa7d00&#8243; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-8.jpg&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;50px|0|50px|0&#8243; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; next_background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243;][et_pb_row admin_label=&#8221;row&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;|||0px&#8221; background_color_2=&#8221;rgba(35,35,35,0.34)&#8221; padding_left_2=&#8221;0px&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.8&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;||||&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243;][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;2_3&#8243;][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;175px&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; hide_on_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Post TItle&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;72&#8243; text_font_size_tablet=&#8221;52&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.1em&#8221; max_width=&#8221;620px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px||0px|&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;|20px|20px|20px&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Pole, Pole<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; custom_padding_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;50px|0|50px|0&#8243; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;off&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#aa7d00&#8243; next_background_color=&#8221;#f7f7f4&#8243;][et_pb_row admin_label=&#8221;row&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;20px|||&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; column_padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_padding_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; parallax_method_1=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_2=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.0.47&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243;][et_pb_image admin_label=&#8221;Author Pic&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/chizblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2017\/07\/chizpicpng.png&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;off&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Author&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.1&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans|on|||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#02b875&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;27px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; max_width=&#8221;140px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;20px||0px|&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>STEVE CHISNELL<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Role&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.8&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||on||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#594100&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; max_width=&#8221;140px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;10px||60px|&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Model UN Advisor<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;20px&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Date&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans Caption|700|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#02b875&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;26px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; max_width=&#8221;140px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;10px||60px|&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>26 July 2018<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;2_3&#8243;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Post Pt 1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#363636&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;24&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.5em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; max_width=&#8221;620px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px||0px|&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>A country of wood, aluminum, and diesel.<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of clay and rain and mud-slickened boots<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of a thousand greens, of loam and \u201cMambo!\u201d<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of bucket showers and smoke-dried clothing<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of strained muscles, rice, and the Call to Prayer in Lushoto<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Post Pt 2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#363636&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;20&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; max_width=&#8221;620px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;60px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;40px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When we left the airport just before 6 am, dawn was just arriving. Cinderblock and mudbrick buildings defined themselves from the van windows, along with the motorbikes and quiet movements of the local population, some in sweatshirts, some in colorful hijabs. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And then through the too-seldom-parted clouds of this late rainy season, Kili\u2019s silhouette drew itself against the horizon. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Tanzania is a country marked by moments like this one, something iconic or mesmerizing, unremarkable to those who live here, but noteworthy inasmuch as they foster an increasingly politicized tourism industry.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.0.74&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#f7f7f4&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px||0px|&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;0px||0px|&#8221; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243; next_background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243;][et_pb_row make_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;680px&#8221; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;1&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px||0px|&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; make_equal=&#8221;on&#8221; column_padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; background_color_2=&#8221;#efefe9&#8243; parallax_method_1=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_2=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#aa7d00&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;2_3&#8243;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-1-1.jpg&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; border_width_right=&#8221;1px&#8221; border_color_right=&#8221;#aa7d00&#8243; border_width_bottom=&#8221;1px&#8221; border_color_bottom=&#8221;#aa7d00&#8243; box_shadow_style=&#8221;preset2&#8243; box_shadow_horizontal=&#8221;-5px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical=&#8221;3px&#8221; box_shadow_blur=&#8221;22px&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;off&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-6.jpg&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;off&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Excerpt&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;off|off|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#594100&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;24&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;20%|10%||10%&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;|10%||10%&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>\u201c<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Away from the hostels, we will warm ourselves by fires at a convent and German mission, well-cleaned leftovers of colonial years. I am embarrassed that I find their familiar lines and paned windows comforting.<\/span>\u201d<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.8&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#f7f7f4&#8243; next_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221;][et_pb_row admin_label=&#8221;row&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;802px&#8221; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;4&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;20px|||&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; column_padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_padding_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; parallax_method_1=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_2=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_3=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_4=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-9.jpg&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; border_color_all=&#8221;#826300&#8243; border_style_all=&#8221;groove&#8221; border_width_right=&#8221;5px&#8221; border_width_bottom=&#8221;5px&#8221; box_shadow_style=&#8221;preset2&#8243; box_shadow_horizontal=&#8221;4px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical=&#8221;4px&#8221; box_shadow_blur=&#8221;11px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;-180px|||&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; animation_style=&#8221;slide&#8221; animation_direction=&#8221;left&#8221; animation_duration=&#8221;500ms&#8221; animation_intensity_slide=&#8221;10%&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;left&#8221; sticky=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Post Pt 3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#363636&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;20&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; max_width=&#8221;620px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;60px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;40px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of Usambara clouds and cold to the bone,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of mosquito nets and motorbike horns,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of sugar cane rum and ground millet,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of chickens, plastic trash, and chameleons<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We wrestle with water, coaxing a shower spigot to produce something beyond a cold wash. Gratefully, we abandon wifi and with it all news and distractions of home. (But we will make a World Cup exception later in the trip.) We chase salamanders from our washrooms. Our guide Shannon challenges our framing of experience, our expectations. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cMzungu! Mzungu!\u201d The calls of village children as our line of rain ponchos wends its way down the trail towards them. We are the white people come to these rural spaces. Away from the hostels, we will warm ourselves by fires at a convent and German mission, well-cleaned leftovers of colonial years. I am embarrassed that I find their familiar lines and paned windows comforting. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Our guide Chaz tells me that perhaps 2% of the Tanzanian villagers will ever travel as far as the 30 miles to Arusha. Their interests are their own: drying clay bricks, raising chickens and goats, sending their children to struggling schools. Our presence here, even Kilimanjaro and the Serengeti, are unimportant except as potential means for more government resources later. <\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.0.74&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px||0px|&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;0px||0px|&#8221; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243; next_background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243;][et_pb_fullwidth_slider admin_label=&#8221;Fullwidth Slider 3 Pics&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; box_shadow_style=&#8221;preset6&#8243; box_shadow_blur=&#8221;10px&#8221; box_shadow_color=&#8221;rgba(0,0,0,0.1)&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;500px|||&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;360px|||&#8221; custom_padding_phone=&#8221;|||&#8221; top_padding=&#8221;500px&#8221; top_padding_tablet=&#8221;360px&#8221; top_padding_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; remove_inner_shadow=&#8221;off&#8221; hide_content_on_mobile=&#8221;off&#8221; hide_cta_on_mobile=&#8221;off&#8221; show_inner_shadow=&#8221;on&#8221; auto=&#8221;on&#8221; auto_speed=&#8221;10000&#8243;][et_pb_slide use_bg_overlay=&#8221;off&#8221; use_text_overlay=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; header_font=&#8221;||||&#8221; body_font=&#8221;||||&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-2.jpg&#8221; background_size=&#8221;cover&#8221; background_position=&#8221;center&#8221; button_on_hover=&#8221;on&#8221; button_link=&#8221;#&#8221; use_background_color_gradient=&#8221;off&#8221; background_color_gradient_start=&#8221;#2b87da&#8221; background_color_gradient_end=&#8221;#29c4a9&#8243; background_color_gradient_type=&#8221;linear&#8221; background_color_gradient_direction=&#8221;180deg&#8221; background_color_gradient_direction_radial=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color_gradient_start_position=&#8221;0%&#8221; background_color_gradient_end_position=&#8221;100%&#8221; background_color_gradient_overlays_image=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;on&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;no-repeat&#8221; background_blend=&#8221;normal&#8221; allow_player_pause=&#8221;off&#8221; background_video_pause_outside_viewport=&#8221;on&#8221; text_border_radius=&#8221;3&#8243; alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; child_filter_hue_rotate=&#8221;0deg&#8221; child_filter_saturate=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_brightness=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_contrast=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_invert=&#8221;0%&#8221; child_filter_sepia=&#8221;0%&#8221; child_filter_opacity=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_blur=&#8221;0px&#8221; child_mix_blend_mode=&#8221;normal&#8221; background_layout=&#8221;dark&#8221; text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; header_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; body_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; custom_button=&#8221;off&#8221; button_bg_use_color_gradient=&#8221;off&#8221; button_bg_color_gradient_overlays_image=&#8221;off&#8221; button_use_icon=&#8221;on&#8221; button_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; box_shadow_style_button=&#8221;none&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; \/][et_pb_slide use_bg_overlay=&#8221;off&#8221; use_text_overlay=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; header_font=&#8221;||||&#8221; body_font=&#8221;||||&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-12.jpg&#8221; background_size=&#8221;cover&#8221; background_position=&#8221;center&#8221; button_on_hover=&#8221;on&#8221; button_link=&#8221;#&#8221; use_background_color_gradient=&#8221;off&#8221; background_color_gradient_start=&#8221;#2b87da&#8221; background_color_gradient_end=&#8221;#29c4a9&#8243; background_color_gradient_type=&#8221;linear&#8221; background_color_gradient_direction=&#8221;180deg&#8221; background_color_gradient_direction_radial=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color_gradient_start_position=&#8221;0%&#8221; background_color_gradient_end_position=&#8221;100%&#8221; background_color_gradient_overlays_image=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;on&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;no-repeat&#8221; background_blend=&#8221;normal&#8221; allow_player_pause=&#8221;off&#8221; background_video_pause_outside_viewport=&#8221;on&#8221; text_border_radius=&#8221;3&#8243; alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; child_filter_hue_rotate=&#8221;0deg&#8221; child_filter_saturate=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_brightness=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_contrast=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_invert=&#8221;0%&#8221; child_filter_sepia=&#8221;0%&#8221; child_filter_opacity=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_blur=&#8221;0px&#8221; child_mix_blend_mode=&#8221;normal&#8221; background_layout=&#8221;dark&#8221; text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; header_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; body_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; custom_button=&#8221;off&#8221; button_bg_use_color_gradient=&#8221;off&#8221; button_bg_color_gradient_overlays_image=&#8221;off&#8221; button_use_icon=&#8221;on&#8221; button_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; box_shadow_style_button=&#8221;none&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; \/][et_pb_slide use_bg_overlay=&#8221;off&#8221; use_text_overlay=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; header_font=&#8221;||||&#8221; body_font=&#8221;||||&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-13.jpg&#8221; background_size=&#8221;cover&#8221; background_position=&#8221;bottom_center&#8221; button_on_hover=&#8221;on&#8221; button_link=&#8221;#&#8221; use_background_color_gradient=&#8221;off&#8221; background_color_gradient_start=&#8221;#2b87da&#8221; background_color_gradient_end=&#8221;#29c4a9&#8243; background_color_gradient_type=&#8221;linear&#8221; background_color_gradient_direction=&#8221;180deg&#8221; background_color_gradient_direction_radial=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color_gradient_start_position=&#8221;0%&#8221; background_color_gradient_end_position=&#8221;100%&#8221; background_color_gradient_overlays_image=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;on&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;no-repeat&#8221; background_blend=&#8221;normal&#8221; allow_player_pause=&#8221;off&#8221; background_video_pause_outside_viewport=&#8221;on&#8221; text_border_radius=&#8221;3&#8243; alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; child_filter_hue_rotate=&#8221;0deg&#8221; child_filter_saturate=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_brightness=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_contrast=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_invert=&#8221;0%&#8221; child_filter_sepia=&#8221;0%&#8221; child_filter_opacity=&#8221;100%&#8221; child_filter_blur=&#8221;0px&#8221; child_mix_blend_mode=&#8221;normal&#8221; background_layout=&#8221;dark&#8221; text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; header_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; body_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; custom_button=&#8221;off&#8221; button_bg_use_color_gradient=&#8221;off&#8221; button_bg_color_gradient_overlays_image=&#8221;off&#8221; button_use_icon=&#8221;on&#8221; button_text_shadow_style=&#8221;none&#8221; box_shadow_style_button=&#8221;none&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; body_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_horizontal_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_vertical_length=&#8221;0em&#8221; button_text_shadow_blur_strength=&#8221;0em&#8221; \/][\/et_pb_fullwidth_slider][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; next_background_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243;][et_pb_row admin_label=&#8221;row&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;1199px&#8221; column_padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_padding_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; parallax_method_1=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_2=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_3=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_4=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;1&#8243;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Post Pt 4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#363636&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;20&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; max_width=&#8221;320px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;60px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;40px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of overgrown trails and plastic lawn chairs,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of more rain and mud and rice and wind,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of cow-milking and 54 students to a classroom,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of generations stretched against tradition and future<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cPole, pole.\u201d My knees and thighs complain against another \u201cshort walk,\u201d an ascent that lasts two hours. The traveler sicknesses that attack each of us double-down on my own intestines, and I stay behind one morning to talk with Hassan, a Muslim Maasai. He pulls down his <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">shuka<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> to answer his cell phone. When I ask him which of these lands belong to the Maasai, he quietly confides that \u201cAll lands belong to Maasai.\u201d Politics does not interest him. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It is a slow morning, like each day we meet here. Across the valleys and hills of rural Tanzania, the work starts early, quietly, with these people carrying timber on bicycles, water and grains atop their heads, poverty through the villages. But there seems no want, little misery. Baba tells us that Njoro village needs clean water, and we believe him; the satellite TVs tell them all that more is to be had, but this sort of aspiration does not confess itself here.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Hassan reminds me that the indigenous Maasai choose their own future in this modern-ing world. They keep their dance, their pastoral lives and markets, their circumcision rites, and their celebratory slaughter of our fire-cooked goat last night, but they welcome schools and send their people to universities. They make business deals with tourist companies; they design websites. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Selling the Serengeti<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, we read that the Western conceit is that the conservation of nature relies upon the removal of humans from the world of wildlife. The Maasai belie this idea, demonstrating that their lifestyle adapts to any environment. They have lived for centuries at peace with this wilderness: why should I doubt they can adapt to this new modern-ing, as well?<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243;][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;60&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.2&#8243; hide_on_mobile=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;70&#8243; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.2&#8243; hide_on_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-7.jpg&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; animation_style=&#8221;fade&#8221; animation_duration=&#8221;500ms&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;fade_in&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Caption&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;off|off|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#594100&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;24&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;20px|||&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>\u201c<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When I ask him which of these lands belong to the Maasai, he quietly confides that \u201cAll lands belong to Maasai.\u201d Politics does not interest him.<\/span>\u201d<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Credit&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans|on|||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#888888&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;12&#8243; text_letter_spacing=&#8221;2px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;20px|||&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; \/][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;70&#8243; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.2&#8243; hide_on_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; disabled=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-11.jpg&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;off|off|off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; animation_style=&#8221;fade&#8221; animation_duration=&#8221;500ms&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;fade_in&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221; disabled=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-10.jpg&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;off|off|off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; animation_style=&#8221;fade&#8221; animation_duration=&#8221;500ms&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;fade_in&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221; disabled=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;20px|||&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; next_background_color=&#8221;#89680c&#8221;][et_pb_row admin_label=&#8221;row&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;773px&#8221; column_padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_padding_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; parallax_method_1=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_2=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_3=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_4=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243;][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;60&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.2&#8243; hide_on_mobile=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;70&#8243; disabled_on=&#8221;on|on|off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.2&#8243; hide_on_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-5.jpg&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; animation_style=&#8221;fade&#8221; animation_duration=&#8221;500ms&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;fade_in&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Caption&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;off|off|&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#594100&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;24&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;20px|||&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>\u201c<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How long before I agree with them that the next walk is indeed short?<\/span>\u201d<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Credit&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.8&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans|on|||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#888888&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;12&#8243; text_letter_spacing=&#8221;2px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;20px|||&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; \/][et_pb_divider show_divider=&#8221;off&#8221; height=&#8221;70&#8243; disabled_on=&#8221;off|off|off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; hide_on_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; disabled=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_divider][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Post Pt 5&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#363636&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;20&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; max_width=&#8221;320px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;60px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;40px||0px|&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of mountaintop starfields and hazy clouds of galaxies,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of cicadas and bush-babies, but every home a rooster,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of baboons learned to thieve the lunches of our picnics,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>Of leopards and lions grown bored by the idling jeeps,<\/em><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: 14pt;\"><em>A country of andante and drum, of a tempo gracious and satisfied. <\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Of the more than 100 tribes in Tanzania, each finds its way, \u201cpole, pole.\u201d \u00a0My knees find their way up and through these hills the same way. Chaz tells me that he was watched me walk and calls me \u201cstrong.\u201d I am skeptical. I know my legs have limits, but across the weeks here I feel my own endurance grow some. How long before I agree with them that the next walk is indeed short? At its own pace, Tanzania steps into a modern (if not always Western) world. I wonder at our own unwillingness to move, to choose direction, to adapt. <\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#89680c&#8221; border_width_top=&#8221;4px&#8221; border_width_bottom=&#8221;4px&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#e0dbd5&#8243; next_background_color=&#8221;#222222&#8243;][et_pb_row use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;988px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;27px|0px|27px|0px|false|false&#8221; column_padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax_method_1=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Serif||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#363636&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;36&#8243; text_font_size_tablet=&#8221;26&#8243; text_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|tablet&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; background_layout=&#8221;dark&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||70px|&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #ededed;\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Follow our blog from all our travelers at <\/span><\/i><a style=\"color: #ededed;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/project\/tanzania\/\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/project\/tanzania\/<\/span><\/i><\/a><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> or from our Twitter: #rotanzania. <\/span><\/i><\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_social_media_follow follow_button=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.10.2&#8243; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; background_layout=&#8221;dark&#8221;][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=&#8221;facebook&#8221; url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/groups\/27558676274\/&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#3b5998&#8243; follow_button=&#8221;on&#8221; url_new_window=&#8221;on&#8221;] Facebook [\/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=&#8221;twitter&#8221; url=&#8221;https:\/\/twitter.com\/search?f=tweets&amp;q=%23rotanzania&amp;src=typd&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#00aced&#8221; follow_button=&#8221;on&#8221; url_new_window=&#8221;on&#8221;] Twitter [\/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][\/et_pb_social_media_follow][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.0.74&#8243; background_color=&#8221;#222222&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; custom_padding_tablet=&#8221;0px|||&#8221; transparent_background=&#8221;off&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; prev_background_color=&#8221;#89680c&#8221;][et_pb_row make_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;2&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;40px|||&#8221; padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; column_padding_mobile=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax_method_1=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_2=&#8221;off&#8221; parallax_method_3=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.0.47&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2017\/08\/serengeti-tanzania.jpg&#8221; url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/project\/tanzania\/&#8221; url_new_window=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.8&#8243; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;off&#8221; sticky=&#8221;on&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans|on|||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#888888&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;12&#8243; text_letter_spacing=&#8221;2px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;30px|||&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>TRAVELS<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;24&#8243; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #ffffff;\">Our Tanzania Page<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/logo_bookglobe_white-small.png&#8221; url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/&#8221; url_new_window=&#8221;on&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.8&#8243; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;off&#8221; sticky=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans|on|||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#888888&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;12&#8243; text_letter_spacing=&#8221;2px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;30px|||&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>CHISNELL.COM<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;24&#8243; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #ffffff;\">My Home Page<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/romun-menupic2.png&#8221; url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.romun.org\/&#8221; url_new_window=&#8221;on&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; max_width=&#8221;91%&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; filter_hue_rotate=&#8221;181deg&#8221; filter_saturate=&#8221;88%&#8221; filter_brightness=&#8221;85%&#8221; filter_invert=&#8221;100%&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; animation=&#8221;off&#8221; sticky=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans|on|||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#888888&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;12&#8243; text_letter_spacing=&#8221;2px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;30px|||&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>CLUBS<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.7&#8243; text_font=&#8221;PT Sans||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;24&#8243; text_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; use_border_color=&#8221;off&#8221; border_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #ffffff;\">Royal Oak Model UN<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>STEVE CHISNELL &#8212; And then through the too-seldom-parted clouds of this late rainy season, Kili\u2019s silhouette drew itself against the horizon. Tanzania is a country marked by moments like this one, something iconic or mesmerizing, <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3520,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[1,74],"tags":[95,78,93,94,80,46,33,79],"class_list":["post-3507","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-my-trips","category-tanzania","tag-change","tag-expectation","tag-maasai","tag-modernization","tag-ritual","tag-romun","tag-tanzania","tag-tourism"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2018\/07\/Untitled-8.jpg?fit=800%2C388&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p8kZpI-Uz","jetpack-related-posts":[],"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3507","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3507"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3507\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3527,"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3507\/revisions\/3527"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3520"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3507"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3507"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chisnell.com\/travels\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3507"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}